Friday, August 31, 2012
Gateway Greening Application Process
I've received the application from Gateway Greening to become a garden with them. Orientation meetings are scheduled for
September 26th - 11:00 am - 12:00 pm - Gateway Greening's Office: 2211 Washington Ave
September 27th - 6:00 pm - 7:00 pm - Office: 2211 Washington Ave
October 6th - 9:00 am - 10:00 am - Gateway Greening's Carriage House: 3815 Bell Ave.
These are held by Gateway Greening. Any garden member is welcome to attend - and we need at least one member to definitely attend. Anyone interested?
UPDATE: It was decided that at this time the benefit of joining Gateway Greening was outweighed by the overall cost of doing so. While still a possibility in the future, joining Gateway Greening is no longer an active pursuit by the members of the garden.
Wednesday, August 8, 2012
Fall and Winter Gardening
There is far more information out there on Fall and Winter gardening than I can sift through and present coherently in this format. But I thought I'd try to hit some highlights as we start considering the end of summer.
We are zoned 6a to 7a on the revised USDA zone hardiness map. We're literally right on the edge. The dent into the river channel creates a climate more like 7a, but we're surrounded to the north and west by 6b. We all know how unpredictable the weather can be, so it's probably best to assume we'll have a 6b winter. What does that mean? It's an indicator of how cold the weather is, and what our average frost dates are. Many gardeners are familiar with frost dates - we know when the soil is warm enough to start planting. But end frost dates are important, as well, to the cold weather gardener. It gives us a time table for when we should start planting our cool weather crops.
For your ease of finding:
Zone 6
Average date the last frost - 30 March to 30 April
Average date the first frost - 30 September to 30 October
Zone 7
Average date the last frost - 30 March to 30 April
Average date the first frost - 30 September to 30 October
For our zone, it's the time to plant certain cool weather crops that cannot survive the heat of summer, that need cool weather to mature, or simply have enough hardiness to give us a second crop for the year. We still have time to plant:
Arugula
Asian Greens
Endive
Garlic
Kohlrabi
Lettuce
Swiss Chard
Turnips
It's really close, but you might be able to get a crop of beets and onions in as well. With this crazy weather, who knows how Fall will work out?
We are zoned 6a to 7a on the revised USDA zone hardiness map. We're literally right on the edge. The dent into the river channel creates a climate more like 7a, but we're surrounded to the north and west by 6b. We all know how unpredictable the weather can be, so it's probably best to assume we'll have a 6b winter. What does that mean? It's an indicator of how cold the weather is, and what our average frost dates are. Many gardeners are familiar with frost dates - we know when the soil is warm enough to start planting. But end frost dates are important, as well, to the cold weather gardener. It gives us a time table for when we should start planting our cool weather crops.
For your ease of finding:
Zone 6
Average date the last frost - 30 March to 30 April
Average date the first frost - 30 September to 30 October
Zone 7
Average date the last frost - 30 March to 30 April
Average date the first frost - 30 September to 30 October
For our zone, it's the time to plant certain cool weather crops that cannot survive the heat of summer, that need cool weather to mature, or simply have enough hardiness to give us a second crop for the year. We still have time to plant:
Arugula
Asian Greens
Endive
Garlic
Kohlrabi
Lettuce
Swiss Chard
Turnips
It's really close, but you might be able to get a crop of beets and onions in as well. With this crazy weather, who knows how Fall will work out?
Sunday, June 3, 2012
To Our People
I just wanted to take a moment and thank everyone for all their hard work. One end of the lot has been fenced, the trash has been cleaned out, and the planter beds are all developing individual personalities. Without the time, effort, and support of all of you this wouldn't be happening. Please know that you are appreciated!
Beth
Beth
Friday, April 13, 2012
Book Review: "The Beginner's Guide to Edible Herbs"
Subtitle: 26 Herbs Everyone Should Grow and Enjoy by Charles Smith (ISBN: 9781603425285)
Another book picked from the library shelf based on its title and availability - and a great find! For anyone looking to learn about herbs this is a well put together book. Most of the book focuses on the 26 herbs, though the concise introduction written by Edward Smith (author of "The Vegetable Gardener's Bible) covers basic growing information. This really is a focused guide for beginners. Mixed in with the individual herb listings are many recipes to incorporate these herbs into your kitchen. Each herb listing has a description, photo, guides to growing and harvesting, uses and preservation. The author even includes commonly accepted companion planting information (when available)and culinary connections.
The herbs features are not specific to the Midwest, the USA, or even N. America. They were chosen because of the frequent occurrence of the herb in our kitchens or plant nurseries. A possible negative of this book is that it may not contain the herb you're interested in growing. But with so many books suffering from too many listings and not enough individual information, this book is a refreshing change.
Pros: Great introduction in growing and using these 26 herbs.
Cons: Only covers 26 herbs.
Bottom Line: If you're looking for a quick guide to what herbs to focus your energy on, pick up this book. It's exactly right.
Would I buy this for my library? Yes. The information is concise, well presented, and detailed. It's now on my list.
Which 26 herbs are in this book? These: anise hyssop, basil, bay laurel, bee balm, borage, calendula, caraway, catnip, chives, cilantro, dill, fennel, garlic, hyssop, lavender, lemon balm, lemon verbena, marjoram, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon, thyme.
Another book picked from the library shelf based on its title and availability - and a great find! For anyone looking to learn about herbs this is a well put together book. Most of the book focuses on the 26 herbs, though the concise introduction written by Edward Smith (author of "The Vegetable Gardener's Bible) covers basic growing information. This really is a focused guide for beginners. Mixed in with the individual herb listings are many recipes to incorporate these herbs into your kitchen. Each herb listing has a description, photo, guides to growing and harvesting, uses and preservation. The author even includes commonly accepted companion planting information (when available)and culinary connections.
The herbs features are not specific to the Midwest, the USA, or even N. America. They were chosen because of the frequent occurrence of the herb in our kitchens or plant nurseries. A possible negative of this book is that it may not contain the herb you're interested in growing. But with so many books suffering from too many listings and not enough individual information, this book is a refreshing change.
Pros: Great introduction in growing and using these 26 herbs.
Cons: Only covers 26 herbs.
Bottom Line: If you're looking for a quick guide to what herbs to focus your energy on, pick up this book. It's exactly right.
Would I buy this for my library? Yes. The information is concise, well presented, and detailed. It's now on my list.
Which 26 herbs are in this book? These: anise hyssop, basil, bay laurel, bee balm, borage, calendula, caraway, catnip, chives, cilantro, dill, fennel, garlic, hyssop, lavender, lemon balm, lemon verbena, marjoram, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon, thyme.
Book Review "Herb Gardening for the Midwest" by Debra Knapke
Another run to the library, another selection of books I've formed opinions about! Today's selection is "Herb Gardening for the Midwest" by Debra Knapke and Laura Peters.
I selected this book because it was compact and titled to indicate being specific to our region. I must say, I love the binding and cover, a water and tear resistant material. The paper is a high gloss, making the photos really stand out. The majority of the book is devoted to an alphabetical listing/description of individual herbs (with a little cross over from hard to define plants like Arugula). Each entry is fairly detailed, with each herb getting their own introduction, features, growing, tips, recommended varieties, harvest/processing, and uses. Some entries even include recipes for things like soap, oils, and lotions. The information is a concise overview for the herb.
I'm not rushing out to acquire my own copy, however. Once again, this is a good introduction book but isn't going to last long as a useful reference guide. There isn't enough information about specific growing conditions. The book is titled "...for the Midwest" but nothing in the book gives reason for that distinction. The only hint is found in the introduction which includes a zone hardiness map but the selection printed is now out of date (due to some very recent changes by the USDA) and, more importantly, doesn't include 5 states commonly accepted as "midwest." One of the missing happens to be Missouri.
The biggest reason for not recommending this book is the fact that unless you're willing to read through 200 pages of herb listings, there's no way to intelligently decide which herbs you want to focus on. The information in the book is readily available in many locations (including online).
Pros: Detailed, well organized entry for each herb listed in the book.
Cons: Not enough specific growing information, nothing specific to midwest
Bottom Line: If you know what herbs you cook with but no idea how to grow them, this book would be a good place to start - but borrow it if possible. If you can't borrow it, just check the 'net.
Would I buy this book for my library? No.
I selected this book because it was compact and titled to indicate being specific to our region. I must say, I love the binding and cover, a water and tear resistant material. The paper is a high gloss, making the photos really stand out. The majority of the book is devoted to an alphabetical listing/description of individual herbs (with a little cross over from hard to define plants like Arugula). Each entry is fairly detailed, with each herb getting their own introduction, features, growing, tips, recommended varieties, harvest/processing, and uses. Some entries even include recipes for things like soap, oils, and lotions. The information is a concise overview for the herb.
I'm not rushing out to acquire my own copy, however. Once again, this is a good introduction book but isn't going to last long as a useful reference guide. There isn't enough information about specific growing conditions. The book is titled "...for the Midwest" but nothing in the book gives reason for that distinction. The only hint is found in the introduction which includes a zone hardiness map but the selection printed is now out of date (due to some very recent changes by the USDA) and, more importantly, doesn't include 5 states commonly accepted as "midwest." One of the missing happens to be Missouri.
The biggest reason for not recommending this book is the fact that unless you're willing to read through 200 pages of herb listings, there's no way to intelligently decide which herbs you want to focus on. The information in the book is readily available in many locations (including online).
Pros: Detailed, well organized entry for each herb listed in the book.
Cons: Not enough specific growing information, nothing specific to midwest
Bottom Line: If you know what herbs you cook with but no idea how to grow them, this book would be a good place to start - but borrow it if possible. If you can't borrow it, just check the 'net.
Would I buy this book for my library? No.
Thursday, March 29, 2012
LaSalle Park Community Garden Meeting
LaSalle Park Community Garden Meeting
Tuesday 20 March 2012
7:30 pm at Beth M Household
Present: Elizabeth M, Danielle S, Chris V, Lindsay M, Tony B, Heather M
Absent: Toni H
Beth M opened the meeting. She had compiled a list of topics that had been brought to her attention and as a group we discussed them, attempted to find the best solution and voted accordingly. These minutes also include any updates that have occurred since the meeting and are noted accordingly.
Garden Plan
Issue: There has been a much larger demand for the 2’ x10’ & 2’x11’ planter beds than the 4’x4’ beds.
Solution/Response:
New Plan: Beth had drafted a revised garden plan and presented it to the group. The planter beds still run east/west but the new plan has less 4’x4’ planter beds, more 2’x10’ beds and 2’x12’ beds have been added. The planter beds were moved 6’ from the North boundary to allow 3’ for the north perimeter bed and a 3’ walking space between the perimeter bed and the 1st raised planter bed. The planter beds are 3’ off of the West fence to allow ~1’ of space for climbing plants to be planted there.
Planter Beds: A couple of planter beds have been built and are at the site to be viewed and used as a template.
Action:
Finish staking garden including the corners for the planter beds and the perimeter beds along the north & south.
Toni H to distribute perimeter plan. Everyone present was excited about the prospect of rose bushes and butterfly plants in the perimeter.
Note: Toni-Please let us know if you need help with the perimeter, either planting, cleanup or upkeep.
Issue: The current spacing between the beds is 3’ which Danielle did not feel was enough space to get a cart or wheelbarrow in and out and would like the space increased to 4’.
Solution/Response:
The group voted to keep the space at 3’.
Action:
None
Issue: Tony & Danielle proposed that there be a community area with a park bench/sitting area so the community, even those who don’t garden, can come and enjoy the garden.
Solution/Response:
The group voted to include a Community Area with seating.
An area on the Western half of the lot will be left open for this purpose in the future.
Action:
Exact size, location and layout of community area to be determined.
Tony will seek businesses to sponsor and cover the cost of creating this space.
Issue: Drainage/Grading: For clarity, the issues will be labeled A, B, C etc.
A. The site appears to have a high spot that runs north south and is located about midway east/west.
B. There is a significant low spot along the east, about midway north/south,
C. There is a low spot in the northeast corner of the lot.
D. There appears to be a sink hole along the north, near the southeast corner of Toni H deck.
Solution/Response:
Danielle suggested that the site should be professionally surveyed and graded properly before moving forward with planter bed installation etc.
Beth suggested that we only build on the Western half of the lot this season while we are still trying to judge the extent of the problem. She obtained a verbal rough estimate that the grading would cost ~$400. This estimate did not include fill material.
The group voted to:
1. Wait and see if the sinkholes are still sinking
2. Move forward with developing ONLY the western half of the lot this season.
Action:
Get a professional estimate for the survey and grading of the site.
Raise funds to cover this expense.
Funding
Issue: We still need to raise funds to complete the construction of the garden and for the upkeep/ maintenance of the garden. Those items are:
Ground cover for walkways
Remainder of Fence
Survey & Grading of Lot
Gravel for Loading Zone**See below for update
Water Lateral
Water Storage [Rain Barrels]
General Landscape Maintenance Equipment
Equipment Storage Building
Solution/Response
Obtained estimates for these items
Tony B will make a list of area businesses that may be interested in donating to our project.
Tony will publish the list to the group & we will determine who will contact which businesses with Tony B being the lead.
Loading Zone
Issue: Besides needing funding to create the loading zone, Beth discovered while talking to our Neighborhood Stabilization Officer (NSO) about our loading zone that the City of St. Louis Ordinance and Garden Lease Guidelines contradict each other.
City Ordinance: Restricts the use of gravel & requires concrete for parking areas. It also does not allow parking on grass.
Garden Lease: Restricts the use of concrete.
Solution/Response:
We cannot install a Loading Zone on the garden lot.
The NSO said that the City Ordinance allows cars to stop in the alley for up to 15 minutes for loading/unloading.
Post Sign stating something to the effect of ‘Maximum of 15 minute Loading/Unloading in Alley’.
As members of the LaSalle Park Community Garden, we must be diligent in loading and unloading quickly and efficiently and then parking our cars on Rutger.
Soil
Issue: None
Solution/Response: We are moving forward with a bulk order of soil mix components.
Action: Beth will order the soil components and keep us posted
UPDATE: Per Beth: “ I spoke with STLCompost and due to very high delivery fees they're not reasonable. Also, it seems I made some errors. I put a number on the wrong side of the equation and the end result is a higher cost. I'm sorry. The increase is going to vary from $10 to $30 depending on how much soil you need, I'll email each of you individually. I'm really sorry. I put our order in at Valley Park Feed and delivery is scheduled for Friday, 3/31.”
Lot & Compost Maintenance
Issues: 1. The compost needs to be turned every two weeks. 2. The lot needs to be mowed & weedeated {is that even a word?!?} every 1-2 weeks, depending on rainfall.
Solution/Response: Garden members will take turns ‘turning’ the compost. Beth has a reel to reel push mower and Tony B has a motored lawnmower. Danielle has an electric weed eater. Heather will put together a schedule for a. turning the compost b. lot weeding, mowing etc.
We currently do not have another meeting scheduled.
Tuesday 20 March 2012
7:30 pm at Beth M Household
Present: Elizabeth M, Danielle S, Chris V, Lindsay M, Tony B, Heather M
Absent: Toni H
Beth M opened the meeting. She had compiled a list of topics that had been brought to her attention and as a group we discussed them, attempted to find the best solution and voted accordingly. These minutes also include any updates that have occurred since the meeting and are noted accordingly.
Garden Plan
Issue: There has been a much larger demand for the 2’ x10’ & 2’x11’ planter beds than the 4’x4’ beds.
Solution/Response:
New Plan: Beth had drafted a revised garden plan and presented it to the group. The planter beds still run east/west but the new plan has less 4’x4’ planter beds, more 2’x10’ beds and 2’x12’ beds have been added. The planter beds were moved 6’ from the North boundary to allow 3’ for the north perimeter bed and a 3’ walking space between the perimeter bed and the 1st raised planter bed. The planter beds are 3’ off of the West fence to allow ~1’ of space for climbing plants to be planted there.
Planter Beds: A couple of planter beds have been built and are at the site to be viewed and used as a template.
Action:
Finish staking garden including the corners for the planter beds and the perimeter beds along the north & south.
Toni H to distribute perimeter plan. Everyone present was excited about the prospect of rose bushes and butterfly plants in the perimeter.
Note: Toni-Please let us know if you need help with the perimeter, either planting, cleanup or upkeep.
Issue: The current spacing between the beds is 3’ which Danielle did not feel was enough space to get a cart or wheelbarrow in and out and would like the space increased to 4’.
Solution/Response:
The group voted to keep the space at 3’.
Action:
None
Issue: Tony & Danielle proposed that there be a community area with a park bench/sitting area so the community, even those who don’t garden, can come and enjoy the garden.
Solution/Response:
The group voted to include a Community Area with seating.
An area on the Western half of the lot will be left open for this purpose in the future.
Action:
Exact size, location and layout of community area to be determined.
Tony will seek businesses to sponsor and cover the cost of creating this space.
Issue: Drainage/Grading: For clarity, the issues will be labeled A, B, C etc.
A. The site appears to have a high spot that runs north south and is located about midway east/west.
B. There is a significant low spot along the east, about midway north/south,
C. There is a low spot in the northeast corner of the lot.
D. There appears to be a sink hole along the north, near the southeast corner of Toni H deck.
Solution/Response:
Danielle suggested that the site should be professionally surveyed and graded properly before moving forward with planter bed installation etc.
Beth suggested that we only build on the Western half of the lot this season while we are still trying to judge the extent of the problem. She obtained a verbal rough estimate that the grading would cost ~$400. This estimate did not include fill material.
The group voted to:
1. Wait and see if the sinkholes are still sinking
2. Move forward with developing ONLY the western half of the lot this season.
Action:
Get a professional estimate for the survey and grading of the site.
Raise funds to cover this expense.
Funding
Issue: We still need to raise funds to complete the construction of the garden and for the upkeep/ maintenance of the garden. Those items are:
Ground cover for walkways
Remainder of Fence
Survey & Grading of Lot
Gravel for Loading Zone**See below for update
Water Lateral
Water Storage [Rain Barrels]
General Landscape Maintenance Equipment
Equipment Storage Building
Solution/Response
Obtained estimates for these items
Tony B will make a list of area businesses that may be interested in donating to our project.
Tony will publish the list to the group & we will determine who will contact which businesses with Tony B being the lead.
Loading Zone
Issue: Besides needing funding to create the loading zone, Beth discovered while talking to our Neighborhood Stabilization Officer (NSO) about our loading zone that the City of St. Louis Ordinance and Garden Lease Guidelines contradict each other.
City Ordinance: Restricts the use of gravel & requires concrete for parking areas. It also does not allow parking on grass.
Garden Lease: Restricts the use of concrete.
Solution/Response:
We cannot install a Loading Zone on the garden lot.
The NSO said that the City Ordinance allows cars to stop in the alley for up to 15 minutes for loading/unloading.
Post Sign stating something to the effect of ‘Maximum of 15 minute Loading/Unloading in Alley’.
As members of the LaSalle Park Community Garden, we must be diligent in loading and unloading quickly and efficiently and then parking our cars on Rutger.
Soil
Issue: None
Solution/Response: We are moving forward with a bulk order of soil mix components.
Action: Beth will order the soil components and keep us posted
UPDATE: Per Beth: “ I spoke with STLCompost and due to very high delivery fees they're not reasonable. Also, it seems I made some errors. I put a number on the wrong side of the equation and the end result is a higher cost. I'm sorry. The increase is going to vary from $10 to $30 depending on how much soil you need, I'll email each of you individually. I'm really sorry. I put our order in at Valley Park Feed and delivery is scheduled for Friday, 3/31.”
Lot & Compost Maintenance
Issues: 1. The compost needs to be turned every two weeks. 2. The lot needs to be mowed & weedeated {is that even a word?!?} every 1-2 weeks, depending on rainfall.
Solution/Response: Garden members will take turns ‘turning’ the compost. Beth has a reel to reel push mower and Tony B has a motored lawnmower. Danielle has an electric weed eater. Heather will put together a schedule for a. turning the compost b. lot weeding, mowing etc.
We currently do not have another meeting scheduled.
Saturday, February 25, 2012
Starting Seeds - How I did it.
Okay. I'm starting with the beginning. My seed starting ingredients include: seeds, grow cups, plastic trays, water, vermiculite, and soil.
Seeds
I've gone through my wish list, my available space, and my planting calendar. That's an entire subject all by itself, so here I'll just stick with saying I've picked out my seeds.
Grow Cups
I've been saving toilet paper and paper towel cardboard rolls for awhile (my family thinks I'm a little crazy). I've also been saving cardboard egg cartons. These are great materials for growing seedlings; once grown enough and hardened off to be transplanted outside the entire bit of cardboard can be placed in the ground. This is far cheaper than using peat moss 'grow cups' but the principle is the same. It leaves the root system undisturbed and increases the chances of transplant success.
The rolls are getting chopped up. The paper towel rolls are 11" long, the toilet paper rolls are 4 1/4". I'm just going to divide them up pretty evenly; the precise end length of each piece doesn't matter as long as it isn't over 1 1/2" long, so cut them for the least amount of waste product. These tubes will be used for growing and transplanting individual plants. The egg cartons will be trimmed out to strips of three depressions (so 4 strips per dozen egg carton). These will be used for growing flowers and herbs, as these plants can be planted in groupings.
Plastic Trays
I need something to hold all this stuff in. Anything that isn't water permeable will work. These trays were salvage from a stack left by the dumpster but anything with an edge will work. When choosing a tray, consider the final overall weight. You'll need to be able to pick these trays up and move them around as the plants grow. Ideally, the trays will go outside with you for transplant to minimize the number of times you have to handle the growing cups.
Water
When planting anything, it's important the growing medium is wet BEFORE putting the seeds in. Sowing seeds (and planting transplants) in dry material means a lot of watering catch up.
Vermiculite and Soil
Ideally, I would love to be using the Square Foot Gardening (SFG) medium (known as Mel's Mix, or MM) for every stage of my planting. But I haven't gotten all of my compost materials yet, so I'm making do with an organic garden soil with nitrogen and soluble potash (healthy fertilizers) and vermiculite. The vermiculite will go a long way with water retention - as long as I property wet the material before sowing seeds. I'll be using 1/3 vermiculite and 2/3 soil mixed then added to the growing cups.
Now that I have all my ingredients, it's time for the first stage of sowing, cutting my growing cups and mixing my soil and vermiculite.
The plastic trays need some water retention factor in the bottom. I'm using the lids from the egg cartons, shredded, and leftover pieces from the cardboard roll cutting. The egg cartons need to have a hole in the bottom to encourage drainage and, later, degradation in the ground. Other cardboard, paper, or paper towels will work as well. Avoid heavily inked papers. Soak this layer before building on top of it, this is a good opportunity to make sure the material will soak up water and stays ahead of the watering.
Once all those are cut and set, I mixed my soil compound and added it to the grow cups. Be gentle and remember to water the mix before adding it to the cups. Shake or pour the mix into the cups, do not pat it down. A loose soil is very important to good plant growth. And since the whole cup will be put into the ground, there's no reason to encourage dense root development.
I then labeled everything in code. Experience has taught me that seedlings can be difficult to tell apart, identifying stakes can be easily misplaced or made unreadable. So instead I labeled the trays with a grid - letters down one side, numbers across the top, and then I'll make a separate list using grid coordinates. The list goes in my garden journal, so I can keep up with it all later.
Possibly, depending on germination times and plant development, I should be very careful of what I'm all putting in each tray. But this is all still a little new, and I can't seem to process all that right now. So I'm planting what I want all together and we'll see what happens!
Once the tray is ready, I sow the seeds. For deeper seeds I use a pencil to poke a hole. The key is to keep the soil loose. The trays I have (conveniently) work together to create a greenhouse. This will maximize the warmth from the sun in my window. Other options include grow lamps, plastic sheeting, and black seed covers. Before placing on the cover, I give everything a light watering with a spray bottle. Once a day and that should provide enough water for the plants.
Now, we just wait for the seeds to do their thing!
Seeds
I've gone through my wish list, my available space, and my planting calendar. That's an entire subject all by itself, so here I'll just stick with saying I've picked out my seeds.
Grow Cups
I've been saving toilet paper and paper towel cardboard rolls for awhile (my family thinks I'm a little crazy). I've also been saving cardboard egg cartons. These are great materials for growing seedlings; once grown enough and hardened off to be transplanted outside the entire bit of cardboard can be placed in the ground. This is far cheaper than using peat moss 'grow cups' but the principle is the same. It leaves the root system undisturbed and increases the chances of transplant success.
The rolls are getting chopped up. The paper towel rolls are 11" long, the toilet paper rolls are 4 1/4". I'm just going to divide them up pretty evenly; the precise end length of each piece doesn't matter as long as it isn't over 1 1/2" long, so cut them for the least amount of waste product. These tubes will be used for growing and transplanting individual plants. The egg cartons will be trimmed out to strips of three depressions (so 4 strips per dozen egg carton). These will be used for growing flowers and herbs, as these plants can be planted in groupings.
Plastic Trays
I need something to hold all this stuff in. Anything that isn't water permeable will work. These trays were salvage from a stack left by the dumpster but anything with an edge will work. When choosing a tray, consider the final overall weight. You'll need to be able to pick these trays up and move them around as the plants grow. Ideally, the trays will go outside with you for transplant to minimize the number of times you have to handle the growing cups.
Water
When planting anything, it's important the growing medium is wet BEFORE putting the seeds in. Sowing seeds (and planting transplants) in dry material means a lot of watering catch up.
Vermiculite and Soil
Ideally, I would love to be using the Square Foot Gardening (SFG) medium (known as Mel's Mix, or MM) for every stage of my planting. But I haven't gotten all of my compost materials yet, so I'm making do with an organic garden soil with nitrogen and soluble potash (healthy fertilizers) and vermiculite. The vermiculite will go a long way with water retention - as long as I property wet the material before sowing seeds. I'll be using 1/3 vermiculite and 2/3 soil mixed then added to the growing cups.
Now that I have all my ingredients, it's time for the first stage of sowing, cutting my growing cups and mixing my soil and vermiculite.
The plastic trays need some water retention factor in the bottom. I'm using the lids from the egg cartons, shredded, and leftover pieces from the cardboard roll cutting. The egg cartons need to have a hole in the bottom to encourage drainage and, later, degradation in the ground. Other cardboard, paper, or paper towels will work as well. Avoid heavily inked papers. Soak this layer before building on top of it, this is a good opportunity to make sure the material will soak up water and stays ahead of the watering.
Once all those are cut and set, I mixed my soil compound and added it to the grow cups. Be gentle and remember to water the mix before adding it to the cups. Shake or pour the mix into the cups, do not pat it down. A loose soil is very important to good plant growth. And since the whole cup will be put into the ground, there's no reason to encourage dense root development.
I then labeled everything in code. Experience has taught me that seedlings can be difficult to tell apart, identifying stakes can be easily misplaced or made unreadable. So instead I labeled the trays with a grid - letters down one side, numbers across the top, and then I'll make a separate list using grid coordinates. The list goes in my garden journal, so I can keep up with it all later.
Possibly, depending on germination times and plant development, I should be very careful of what I'm all putting in each tray. But this is all still a little new, and I can't seem to process all that right now. So I'm planting what I want all together and we'll see what happens!
Once the tray is ready, I sow the seeds. For deeper seeds I use a pencil to poke a hole. The key is to keep the soil loose. The trays I have (conveniently) work together to create a greenhouse. This will maximize the warmth from the sun in my window. Other options include grow lamps, plastic sheeting, and black seed covers. Before placing on the cover, I give everything a light watering with a spray bottle. Once a day and that should provide enough water for the plants.
Now, we just wait for the seeds to do their thing!
Oh, yeah! Here we go!
The lease is officially ours. It's signed, paid for, and done! Thanks to everyone for all the hard work.
Come on out and work hard with us again! March 3 and 4 in fence building. 10am. Meet us there!
Beth
Come on out and work hard with us again! March 3 and 4 in fence building. 10am. Meet us there!
Beth
Friday, February 24, 2012
Book Review: "Guide to Missouri Vegetable Gardening"
"Guide to Missouri Vegetable Gardening" by James A Fizzell
I've been looking forward to this book. It keeps popping up just about everywhere when considering local information for gardening purposes. The book assumes you're a beginning gardener, opening with explanations of soil content, plant growth and placement, etc. Most helpfully, the front of the book as a chart indicating the first and last frost (average) for the whole state. The list of fruits and vegetables in this book is quite long, with basic information included for each plant and, for some plants, a listing of varieties. The "beginner gardener" feel to the book continues throughout the plant listings, giving overviews on when, how, and where for each plant.
Once again, however, the book assumes a fairly large plant spacing without any of the space saving planting techniques. I appreciate the inclusion of a recipe for each plant but would have rather had more in depth information about the plant. I'm strongly interested in good companion planting in our area and was saddened to find nothing of that in this book. The book also has a definite "pro pesticide" viewpoint, including a list of appropriate pesticdes for each pest but no similar information offered for organics. It's not a bad book, just very generalized and traditional.
Pros: Great for beginner gardener plant resource to turn back to again and again.
Cons: Traditional gardening techniques only, little to no discussion of organic techniques.
Bottom Line: If you need a resource guide for your traditional MO state garden, this is a great book. Otherwise, the information available is also in the "All New Square Foot Gardening" - and then you get the space saving techniques, as well.
Would I buy this book for my library? No. I have all this information already in my library - but I would recommend it to someone who is looking for a place to start (and has tons of space to work in).
I've been looking forward to this book. It keeps popping up just about everywhere when considering local information for gardening purposes. The book assumes you're a beginning gardener, opening with explanations of soil content, plant growth and placement, etc. Most helpfully, the front of the book as a chart indicating the first and last frost (average) for the whole state. The list of fruits and vegetables in this book is quite long, with basic information included for each plant and, for some plants, a listing of varieties. The "beginner gardener" feel to the book continues throughout the plant listings, giving overviews on when, how, and where for each plant.
Once again, however, the book assumes a fairly large plant spacing without any of the space saving planting techniques. I appreciate the inclusion of a recipe for each plant but would have rather had more in depth information about the plant. I'm strongly interested in good companion planting in our area and was saddened to find nothing of that in this book. The book also has a definite "pro pesticide" viewpoint, including a list of appropriate pesticdes for each pest but no similar information offered for organics. It's not a bad book, just very generalized and traditional.
Pros: Great for beginner gardener plant resource to turn back to again and again.
Cons: Traditional gardening techniques only, little to no discussion of organic techniques.
Bottom Line: If you need a resource guide for your traditional MO state garden, this is a great book. Otherwise, the information available is also in the "All New Square Foot Gardening" - and then you get the space saving techniques, as well.
Would I buy this book for my library? No. I have all this information already in my library - but I would recommend it to someone who is looking for a place to start (and has tons of space to work in).
Book Review: "Self Sufficiency for the 21st Century"
This is an older review, originally posted on our FB page.
I picked up 'Self Sufficiency for the 21st Century' by Dick and James Strawbridge from the library a few weeks ago and finally have made my way through it. Here are some thoughts:
This is a great book if you're considering becoming more self sufficient, but it is sadly lacking in the resources you need to be self sufficient. Like so many books, it falls victim to being to broad. The authors simply include too many subjects and sacrifice information in order to do so. There are some gems in this book (a handful of great gardening tips, even a recipe for vegetarian soft cheese - no rennet) but those gems are overwhelmed by the massive nature of the book. I spent quite a bit of time lazily paging through the book, and sadly, I didn't find it all that rewarding.
Admittedly, I view this book with an eye towards urban planning/living. I don't have acres on which to raise livestock. My closest source of raw milk is 2 hours away. I don't think the city will let me build a compostable toilet - nor would my acreage support one. The authors do offer some comments on urban living but the information is light and assumes at least some available acreage with good light - a rare commodity in urban living. Funny, they're primary advice is to seek out community gardens. :)
If you're living in a suburban area with some free land, or living in a rural area with cleared land, this is a great starting point to becoming self-sufficient. You will learn enough to figure out where to turn next, what projects might work for your resources and needs. But if you're working within the urban environment, you'd be better off with the book I previously reviewed, 'The Backyard Homesteader.'
I picked up 'Self Sufficiency for the 21st Century' by Dick and James Strawbridge from the library a few weeks ago and finally have made my way through it. Here are some thoughts:
This is a great book if you're considering becoming more self sufficient, but it is sadly lacking in the resources you need to be self sufficient. Like so many books, it falls victim to being to broad. The authors simply include too many subjects and sacrifice information in order to do so. There are some gems in this book (a handful of great gardening tips, even a recipe for vegetarian soft cheese - no rennet) but those gems are overwhelmed by the massive nature of the book. I spent quite a bit of time lazily paging through the book, and sadly, I didn't find it all that rewarding.
Admittedly, I view this book with an eye towards urban planning/living. I don't have acres on which to raise livestock. My closest source of raw milk is 2 hours away. I don't think the city will let me build a compostable toilet - nor would my acreage support one. The authors do offer some comments on urban living but the information is light and assumes at least some available acreage with good light - a rare commodity in urban living. Funny, they're primary advice is to seek out community gardens. :)
If you're living in a suburban area with some free land, or living in a rural area with cleared land, this is a great starting point to becoming self-sufficient. You will learn enough to figure out where to turn next, what projects might work for your resources and needs. But if you're working within the urban environment, you'd be better off with the book I previously reviewed, 'The Backyard Homesteader.'
Book Review: "The Missouri Gardener's Companion"
There are loads of books out there for gardeners. I raided the library and have some thoughts on a few books.
First up is "The Missouri Gardener's Companion" by Becky Homan, subtitled 'An Insider's Guide to Gardening in the Show-Me State'.
This is a great book for an individual with little gardening experience and a typical suburban or larger area to garden. There are three main sections: foundations (soils, growing seasons, water), plants, and gardening solutions. For someone with a fairly significant amount of space and time, the discussion on soil improvement, irrigated watering, etc provides enough information to create a solid garden. If you simply want to know more about these things, this book is great. But it gets very vague when it comes to specifics for Missouri. The author indicates (and explains) that MO is a transitional area, so there are vast differences between various parts of the state. But the result is that there isn't great information for any part of the state. To work as a good resource, the author needed to spend more time outlining those differences, instead of using a few to explain the transitional geography.
If you're at a complete loss at to what to plant in your garden, this is a good place to start. The author provides lists of "Missouri Favorites" in everything from tropical plants to trees and shrubs. It's a good short list of plants and would be especially useful to someone looking to landscape the entire yard. For more traditional gardening, either of edible or ornamental, the list is too limited and all too often provides the technical name of a plant without enough further information.
The book does include some great resources for more information. There is a comprehensive list of public garden areas (like parks and MO Botanical Garden). The 'Resources' section of the book is very traditional, using a separate 'web sites' category, which would be better incorporated into the other categories. I also noticed a lot of good sources mentioned in the chapters but that are left out of the resources section. Because of that, it makes the book overall less useful as a handy reference.
Pros: lots of general information, good introduction to the MO state transitional climate
Cons: too broad reaching, assumption is that of larger, traditional gardening
Bottom line: good read for basic information if you're new at this but if you're gardening in a small area or have some experience try to borrow a copy to make a list of the resources included
Would I buy this for my library? Nope. But I took notes.
First up is "The Missouri Gardener's Companion" by Becky Homan, subtitled 'An Insider's Guide to Gardening in the Show-Me State'.
This is a great book for an individual with little gardening experience and a typical suburban or larger area to garden. There are three main sections: foundations (soils, growing seasons, water), plants, and gardening solutions. For someone with a fairly significant amount of space and time, the discussion on soil improvement, irrigated watering, etc provides enough information to create a solid garden. If you simply want to know more about these things, this book is great. But it gets very vague when it comes to specifics for Missouri. The author indicates (and explains) that MO is a transitional area, so there are vast differences between various parts of the state. But the result is that there isn't great information for any part of the state. To work as a good resource, the author needed to spend more time outlining those differences, instead of using a few to explain the transitional geography.
If you're at a complete loss at to what to plant in your garden, this is a good place to start. The author provides lists of "Missouri Favorites" in everything from tropical plants to trees and shrubs. It's a good short list of plants and would be especially useful to someone looking to landscape the entire yard. For more traditional gardening, either of edible or ornamental, the list is too limited and all too often provides the technical name of a plant without enough further information.
The book does include some great resources for more information. There is a comprehensive list of public garden areas (like parks and MO Botanical Garden). The 'Resources' section of the book is very traditional, using a separate 'web sites' category, which would be better incorporated into the other categories. I also noticed a lot of good sources mentioned in the chapters but that are left out of the resources section. Because of that, it makes the book overall less useful as a handy reference.
Pros: lots of general information, good introduction to the MO state transitional climate
Cons: too broad reaching, assumption is that of larger, traditional gardening
Bottom line: good read for basic information if you're new at this but if you're gardening in a small area or have some experience try to borrow a copy to make a list of the resources included
Would I buy this for my library? Nope. But I took notes.
Sunday, February 5, 2012
The Fence!
Below is a copy of the letter I'll be delivering to the neighbors. We need help to pay for the fence along the walkway. If you can contribute anything, contact me ASAP.
Beth
Hello Neighbors!
My name is Beth Mennemeyer and I live at 938 Morrison Ave. I’m leading the crew that is converting the vacant lot at 1314 10th to a community garden. We have good news: we have been given the go ahead from the city to make this project happen! We have much planned, including cleaning out the lot, building a butterfly garden, and building raised planter beds. Our first order of business, however, is a fence for the lot.
When we initially surveyed the area about the garden, many residents felt that it was very important to put a fence on the lot at the western edge, along 10th street walkway. The open area has become a short cut between the alley and 10th for both cars and pedestrians. There has recently been an increase in petty vandalism near this lot, with the short cut providing an easy escape route. We’d like to change all that by building a fence across the 10th street walkway opening.
To be honest, we’re working with a very small - some might say non-existent - budget. We’re researching grants to help fund the project but we feel very strongly that the fence can’t wait. Several of you have previously offered to help with the fencing project, either through donating money or time to help install it. I’m writing to you to take you up on that offer.
The total cost for the fence along the walkway is $384. It’s a pressure treated wood fence with posts set into concrete - this fence will hold up for quite some time. To save money, we’ll be having ‘fence installation’ days instead of hiring someone. Thankfully, my husband, Marc Brooks, is very handy with power tools and can oversee a great installation.
Right now, $384 is a very daunting number. The neighbors who will be gardening in this lot are shouldering the cost of building their own planter bed and filling it with soil, which makes it very difficult to shoulder the cost of the fence as well. It leaves us in a bit of a bind; without active gardening in the lot we risk losing our lease and any opportunity to improve the lot. But gardening in the lot without the fence in a continuing security risk to the gardeners and surrounding neighbors.
We’re hoping you can help. We are accepting donations in any amount to pay for the fence project. You don’t have to be a garden member to help us out with this project but if you’d like to garden with us we’d love to have you! If you’d like to make a donation, please contact me, Beth Mennemeyer, at 3145881928 or cidersapling@gmail.com. Please do not give a donation to anyone else. If you want to help during installation, we’ll be hard at work March 3 and 4, 2012 to get this project done. Everyone is welcome.
Thanks!
Beth Mennemeyer
Cost of Fence
39ft span across the western edge of 1314 10th street:
Posts (4”x4”x8’), six at a cost of $6 Stringers (2”x4”x8’), 10 at a cost of $3 Fence Boards (5/8”x5 ½”x72”), 85 at a cost of $2 Gothic Post toppers, six at $4 Concrete mix for post holes (40lbs), five at a cost of $3 Metal brackets for posts, six at a cost of $5
JBolts for bracket/posts, six at a cost of $1 Tool rental for post hole digger $73 Screws for assembly (5lb box), one at a cost of $30
Beth
Hello Neighbors!
My name is Beth Mennemeyer and I live at 938 Morrison Ave. I’m leading the crew that is converting the vacant lot at 1314 10th to a community garden. We have good news: we have been given the go ahead from the city to make this project happen! We have much planned, including cleaning out the lot, building a butterfly garden, and building raised planter beds. Our first order of business, however, is a fence for the lot.
When we initially surveyed the area about the garden, many residents felt that it was very important to put a fence on the lot at the western edge, along 10th street walkway. The open area has become a short cut between the alley and 10th for both cars and pedestrians. There has recently been an increase in petty vandalism near this lot, with the short cut providing an easy escape route. We’d like to change all that by building a fence across the 10th street walkway opening.
To be honest, we’re working with a very small - some might say non-existent - budget. We’re researching grants to help fund the project but we feel very strongly that the fence can’t wait. Several of you have previously offered to help with the fencing project, either through donating money or time to help install it. I’m writing to you to take you up on that offer.
The total cost for the fence along the walkway is $384. It’s a pressure treated wood fence with posts set into concrete - this fence will hold up for quite some time. To save money, we’ll be having ‘fence installation’ days instead of hiring someone. Thankfully, my husband, Marc Brooks, is very handy with power tools and can oversee a great installation.
Right now, $384 is a very daunting number. The neighbors who will be gardening in this lot are shouldering the cost of building their own planter bed and filling it with soil, which makes it very difficult to shoulder the cost of the fence as well. It leaves us in a bit of a bind; without active gardening in the lot we risk losing our lease and any opportunity to improve the lot. But gardening in the lot without the fence in a continuing security risk to the gardeners and surrounding neighbors.
We’re hoping you can help. We are accepting donations in any amount to pay for the fence project. You don’t have to be a garden member to help us out with this project but if you’d like to garden with us we’d love to have you! If you’d like to make a donation, please contact me, Beth Mennemeyer, at 3145881928 or cidersapling@gmail.com. Please do not give a donation to anyone else. If you want to help during installation, we’ll be hard at work March 3 and 4, 2012 to get this project done. Everyone is welcome.
Thanks!
Beth Mennemeyer
Cost of Fence
39ft span across the western edge of 1314 10th street:
Posts (4”x4”x8’), six at a cost of $6 Stringers (2”x4”x8’), 10 at a cost of $3 Fence Boards (5/8”x5 ½”x72”), 85 at a cost of $2 Gothic Post toppers, six at $4 Concrete mix for post holes (40lbs), five at a cost of $3 Metal brackets for posts, six at a cost of $5
JBolts for bracket/posts, six at a cost of $1 Tool rental for post hole digger $73 Screws for assembly (5lb box), one at a cost of $30
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
Garden Membership Rules
Garden Membership Guidelines
LaSalle Park Community Garden 1314 10th Street
The LaSalle Park Community Garden is a great community green space for neighbors and volunteers to create and maintain a healthy vibrant gardening resource. We encourage all manners of plantings, are interested in furthering education in small plot gardening and environmentally sustainable practices. We want LaSalle Park residents to be proud members of this community effort.
Somewhat unique to our location of 1314 10th Street, our garden is bordered by LaSalle Park residents. In addition to respecting all gardeners inside the boundaries, please show respect to those neighbors directly along our boundaries. Failure to comply will result in dismissal from LaSalle Park Community Garden. For the safety, fairness, and enjoyment of everyone inside the garden and out, the following rules will be strictly enforced.
Garden Rules
1. Membership inquires should be directed to Garden Leaders. Only Garden Leaders can make plot assignments.
2. Plots are not transferable or assumed when a member leaves the garden.
3. Gardening is to be done in your assigned plot only. Plots must be in a raised planter bed format according to the garden design.
4. You must maintain your plot in an Acceptable Manner: you must actively garden once a week during the growing season. If you are unable to do so due to an illness, injury, or vacation, make arrangements with another gardener or garden leader to attend your garden. While maintaining your plot, take care of the walkways surrounding your planter box by putting away all tools and removing litter, weeds, or debris to appropriate containers.
5. A garden in an unacceptable manner will be flagged by garden leaders. A warning will be issued to the plot owner. If the plot has not been made acceptable after 10 days, a second warning will be issued. 20 days after the first warning, the plot will be reclaimed for reassignment.
6. Water will be collected in rain water barrels for actively gardened plots only. Due to current water restrictions, water conservation is very important. Be sure to turn the water spigot off and clear all path of hoses/watering cans.
7. A garden member will be expected to maintain the assigned plot but also to help maintain the garden as needed. Members will be given a schedule in advance for mowing, weeding, and turning compost. You may also be asked to assist in planting, planter box construction, and garden repair. Regularly missing additional activities will result in a warning for plot reclamation and reassignment. The schedule for activities will be finalized at the beginning of the growing season. If there is a problem, discuss it with garden leaders immediately.
8. Do not dig, fertilize, water, weed, plant or harvest from anyone’s box without permission. If you do so, you will be issued a warning. A second violation can result in your plot being reclaimed for reassignment.
9. Soil mixes are for use in the garden raised boxes only. This soil is not to be removed from the garden or used on garden walkways.
10. Do not allow pets to roam the garden. All pets must be leashed and accompanied by their owner.
11. The purpose of the garden is not to grow vegetables to sell or sell plants or seeds. A violation will result in a warning. A second violation can result in your plot being reclaimed for reassignment.
12. Growing plants designated as illegal by state and federal law will result in immediate reclamation of your assigned plot and termination of your gardening membership.
13. Vertical gardening and vertical growing plants are allowed but limited to: plots 2 ft wide have a vertical maximum height of 5 ft on the south side of the plot and a maximum of 3 ft on the north side of the plot. Plots 4 ft wide have a maximum vertical height of 6ft high on the south side of the plot and a maximum of 3 ft high on the north side of the plot. For all plots a maximum of 3 ft vertical height on the east or west side of the plot. This prevents inadvertently shading another gardener’s plot. If your vertical height requirements are greater than allowed, discuss with garden leaders for possible plot reassignment for accommodations.
14. Smoking is not allowed in the garden.
15. Children must be supervised while in the garden but are encouraged to work in the garden. A garden member may sponsor a child, allowing the child to be assigned a small garden plot under the member’s instruction. Children will be asked to sign a “Young Garden Member” pledge. Contact garden leaders for more information.
16. This garden is an organic garden. The use of herbicides and pesticides is not allowed. Contact garden leaders for more information.
17. Winter planting and cold box planting (“off season”) is allowable in this garden but must be pre-approved by garden leaders. If you have been approved by garden leaders to maintain an “off-season” plot you are expected to maintain your plot throughout the year. Failure to do so will result in the same warning system used during in-season growing.
18. Unless your plot has been approved for “off season” planting, your plot must be clear of all vegetation, and non-plant materials (string, wire, wood, metal, etc) by October 1st. Failure to do so could result in your plot being reassigned for the next growing season.
19. Winter storage of vegetables through trenching, mounds, clamps, pits, or other storage is not allowed. If you’re growing plants for winter harvest you must be pre-approved and may use tenting as long as weather allows. For winter storage in small places, such as a small yard attached to your home, contact garden leaders.
20. The garden design is such that the Square Foot Gardening (SFG) method of gardening will be most beneficial for growing. Members are not required to use SFG but are strongly encouraged. Garden leaders can provide guidance for SFG.
21. Garden members will be asked to sign a new Membership Agreement annually before the growing season begins. Until the garden design has been fulfilled, a membership fee will be waived. New members will be expected to fund the cost for materials to construct thier planter bed. Once the boxes are all constructed, members will be asked to pay a small materials fee for garden improvement and maintenance. If the fee is a hardship or for more information, contact garden leaders.
I, ______________________________________ of _______________________________ have read and agreed to the Garden Membership Guidelines for LaSalle Park Community Garden.
Date: _________________
For Garden Leader Use Only: Plot Assignment:__________ Winter Garden Approval: Yes No
Date: __________ Processed by: ____________
LaSalle Park Community Garden 1314 10th Street
The LaSalle Park Community Garden is a great community green space for neighbors and volunteers to create and maintain a healthy vibrant gardening resource. We encourage all manners of plantings, are interested in furthering education in small plot gardening and environmentally sustainable practices. We want LaSalle Park residents to be proud members of this community effort.
Somewhat unique to our location of 1314 10th Street, our garden is bordered by LaSalle Park residents. In addition to respecting all gardeners inside the boundaries, please show respect to those neighbors directly along our boundaries. Failure to comply will result in dismissal from LaSalle Park Community Garden. For the safety, fairness, and enjoyment of everyone inside the garden and out, the following rules will be strictly enforced.
Garden Rules
1. Membership inquires should be directed to Garden Leaders. Only Garden Leaders can make plot assignments.
2. Plots are not transferable or assumed when a member leaves the garden.
3. Gardening is to be done in your assigned plot only. Plots must be in a raised planter bed format according to the garden design.
4. You must maintain your plot in an Acceptable Manner: you must actively garden once a week during the growing season. If you are unable to do so due to an illness, injury, or vacation, make arrangements with another gardener or garden leader to attend your garden. While maintaining your plot, take care of the walkways surrounding your planter box by putting away all tools and removing litter, weeds, or debris to appropriate containers.
5. A garden in an unacceptable manner will be flagged by garden leaders. A warning will be issued to the plot owner. If the plot has not been made acceptable after 10 days, a second warning will be issued. 20 days after the first warning, the plot will be reclaimed for reassignment.
6. Water will be collected in rain water barrels for actively gardened plots only. Due to current water restrictions, water conservation is very important. Be sure to turn the water spigot off and clear all path of hoses/watering cans.
7. A garden member will be expected to maintain the assigned plot but also to help maintain the garden as needed. Members will be given a schedule in advance for mowing, weeding, and turning compost. You may also be asked to assist in planting, planter box construction, and garden repair. Regularly missing additional activities will result in a warning for plot reclamation and reassignment. The schedule for activities will be finalized at the beginning of the growing season. If there is a problem, discuss it with garden leaders immediately.
8. Do not dig, fertilize, water, weed, plant or harvest from anyone’s box without permission. If you do so, you will be issued a warning. A second violation can result in your plot being reclaimed for reassignment.
9. Soil mixes are for use in the garden raised boxes only. This soil is not to be removed from the garden or used on garden walkways.
10. Do not allow pets to roam the garden. All pets must be leashed and accompanied by their owner.
11. The purpose of the garden is not to grow vegetables to sell or sell plants or seeds. A violation will result in a warning. A second violation can result in your plot being reclaimed for reassignment.
12. Growing plants designated as illegal by state and federal law will result in immediate reclamation of your assigned plot and termination of your gardening membership.
13. Vertical gardening and vertical growing plants are allowed but limited to: plots 2 ft wide have a vertical maximum height of 5 ft on the south side of the plot and a maximum of 3 ft on the north side of the plot. Plots 4 ft wide have a maximum vertical height of 6ft high on the south side of the plot and a maximum of 3 ft high on the north side of the plot. For all plots a maximum of 3 ft vertical height on the east or west side of the plot. This prevents inadvertently shading another gardener’s plot. If your vertical height requirements are greater than allowed, discuss with garden leaders for possible plot reassignment for accommodations.
14. Smoking is not allowed in the garden.
15. Children must be supervised while in the garden but are encouraged to work in the garden. A garden member may sponsor a child, allowing the child to be assigned a small garden plot under the member’s instruction. Children will be asked to sign a “Young Garden Member” pledge. Contact garden leaders for more information.
16. This garden is an organic garden. The use of herbicides and pesticides is not allowed. Contact garden leaders for more information.
17. Winter planting and cold box planting (“off season”) is allowable in this garden but must be pre-approved by garden leaders. If you have been approved by garden leaders to maintain an “off-season” plot you are expected to maintain your plot throughout the year. Failure to do so will result in the same warning system used during in-season growing.
18. Unless your plot has been approved for “off season” planting, your plot must be clear of all vegetation, and non-plant materials (string, wire, wood, metal, etc) by October 1st. Failure to do so could result in your plot being reassigned for the next growing season.
19. Winter storage of vegetables through trenching, mounds, clamps, pits, or other storage is not allowed. If you’re growing plants for winter harvest you must be pre-approved and may use tenting as long as weather allows. For winter storage in small places, such as a small yard attached to your home, contact garden leaders.
20. The garden design is such that the Square Foot Gardening (SFG) method of gardening will be most beneficial for growing. Members are not required to use SFG but are strongly encouraged. Garden leaders can provide guidance for SFG.
21. Garden members will be asked to sign a new Membership Agreement annually before the growing season begins. Until the garden design has been fulfilled, a membership fee will be waived. New members will be expected to fund the cost for materials to construct thier planter bed. Once the boxes are all constructed, members will be asked to pay a small materials fee for garden improvement and maintenance. If the fee is a hardship or for more information, contact garden leaders.
I, ______________________________________ of _______________________________ have read and agreed to the Garden Membership Guidelines for LaSalle Park Community Garden.
Date: _________________
For Garden Leader Use Only: Plot Assignment:__________ Winter Garden Approval: Yes No
Date: __________ Processed by: ____________
Member Application, due March 1, 2012
Garden Member Application
LaSalle Park Community Garden 1314 10 Street
Name: _________________________________________________________
Address: ________________________________________________________
Phone: _______________________ Email: ____________________________
What is the best way to contact you? _________________________________
Do you have a gardening partner? Please list contact information for partner: ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________
Have you had a plot in a community garden elsewhere? When and where?
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
If you are a new gardener, would you like an experienced gardener to help you? Yes No
If you are an experienced gardener, would you like to help a new gardener? Yes No
Your name, phone number, and email address will be shared with garden leaders. In addition, a contact list will be made available to garden members. If you do not wish to have your information made available other garden members, please check here. _____
By signing below, I agree that I have read and understand the Gardener Guidelines and plan to abide by all of the garden rules. I understand that neither the garden group nor owners of the land are responsible for my actions. I therefore agree to hold harmless the garden group and owners of the land for any liability, damage, loss, or claim that occurs in connection with the use of the garden by me or my guests.
___________________________________________________ _____________________
Signature Date
For Garden Leader Use Only: Plot Assignment:__________ Winter Garden Approval: Yes No
Date: __________ Processed by: ____________
For plot assignment, please explain to garden leaders what kind of plants you would like to grow and the shade requirements of your preferred plants:
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
If you wish to apply for winter gardening permission, please explain the types of plants would like to grow and the shade requirements of your preferred plants. Application for winter gardening does not guarantee permission. Garden leaders will discuss your winter gardening application with you at your plot assignment.
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Please circle your preferred volunteer work for the garden. You may circle as many as you wish. We will try to accommodate you, but may not be able to do so. If you’re particularly interested or knowledgeable in an area, please let us know.
Leadership Maintenance Compost Communications Community Relations
Horticulture Specialist Supplies Registration Monitoring Organization
Other: ________________________________________
The plots in the garden measure 4’x4’, 2’x7’, 2’x10’ and 2’11’. Please indicate preferred size: ________ and preferred number of plots _______. Requests are not guaranteed, but garden leaders are committed to meeting the gardener’s needs as best as possible. Multiple plots may not be possible, dependent on participation.
Other information you’d like to communicate to us:
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
For Garden Leader Use Only: Plot Assignment:__________ Winter Garden Approval: Yes No
Date: __________ Processed by: ____________
LaSalle Park Community Garden 1314 10 Street
Name: _________________________________________________________
Address: ________________________________________________________
Phone: _______________________ Email: ____________________________
What is the best way to contact you? _________________________________
Do you have a gardening partner? Please list contact information for partner: ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________
Have you had a plot in a community garden elsewhere? When and where?
___________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________
If you are a new gardener, would you like an experienced gardener to help you? Yes No
If you are an experienced gardener, would you like to help a new gardener? Yes No
Your name, phone number, and email address will be shared with garden leaders. In addition, a contact list will be made available to garden members. If you do not wish to have your information made available other garden members, please check here. _____
By signing below, I agree that I have read and understand the Gardener Guidelines and plan to abide by all of the garden rules. I understand that neither the garden group nor owners of the land are responsible for my actions. I therefore agree to hold harmless the garden group and owners of the land for any liability, damage, loss, or claim that occurs in connection with the use of the garden by me or my guests.
___________________________________________________ _____________________
Signature Date
For Garden Leader Use Only: Plot Assignment:__________ Winter Garden Approval: Yes No
Date: __________ Processed by: ____________
For plot assignment, please explain to garden leaders what kind of plants you would like to grow and the shade requirements of your preferred plants:
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If you wish to apply for winter gardening permission, please explain the types of plants would like to grow and the shade requirements of your preferred plants. Application for winter gardening does not guarantee permission. Garden leaders will discuss your winter gardening application with you at your plot assignment.
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Please circle your preferred volunteer work for the garden. You may circle as many as you wish. We will try to accommodate you, but may not be able to do so. If you’re particularly interested or knowledgeable in an area, please let us know.
Leadership Maintenance Compost Communications Community Relations
Horticulture Specialist Supplies Registration Monitoring Organization
Other: ________________________________________
The plots in the garden measure 4’x4’, 2’x7’, 2’x10’ and 2’11’. Please indicate preferred size: ________ and preferred number of plots _______. Requests are not guaranteed, but garden leaders are committed to meeting the gardener’s needs as best as possible. Multiple plots may not be possible, dependent on participation.
Other information you’d like to communicate to us:
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
For Garden Leader Use Only: Plot Assignment:__________ Winter Garden Approval: Yes No
Date: __________ Processed by: ____________
Building a Garden (with no support funds)
Guidelines for Establishing the Garden
The Plots
The garden plots will be done in planter bed format. The soil in this lot is just too poor for planting directly into the ground. The plot building dimensions are set by the garden design. Sizes include 4'x4', 2'x7', 2'x10', and 2'x11'. Planter boxes will be a minimum of 1’ tall (recommended) and a maximum of 3’. Boxes taller than 1’ will have adjusted vertical growing limits such that they do not shadow nearby boxes. Boxes taller than 1’ must be approved by garden leaders. Boxes are to be built from wood, unless previously approved by garden leaders.
The usual standard is to charge garden members an annual fee to cover the cost of maintenance, etc. Instead, garden members be asked to cover the cost of your planter bed. The garden will continue to operate this way until all the planter beds on the design are built, then we'll begin an annual fee.
Planter boxes need be filled with a mixture of 1/3 blended compost, 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 coarse vermiculite. It's the perfect combination for a program called Square Foot Gardening (SFG). Garden members will not be required to SFG, though it is recommended based on garden space. Garden leaders can help members to find sources for these materials.
The Design
Plots will be assigned in consideration of 1. the needs of the gardener and 2. the overall design of the garden. Plots near the western edge will be assigned first. The perimeter of the garden is going to be used for a rose garden and a butterfly garden, assuring good pollination of garden plots. The garden will be developed as indicated by the garden proposal.
The Plots
The garden plots will be done in planter bed format. The soil in this lot is just too poor for planting directly into the ground. The plot building dimensions are set by the garden design. Sizes include 4'x4', 2'x7', 2'x10', and 2'x11'. Planter boxes will be a minimum of 1’ tall (recommended) and a maximum of 3’. Boxes taller than 1’ will have adjusted vertical growing limits such that they do not shadow nearby boxes. Boxes taller than 1’ must be approved by garden leaders. Boxes are to be built from wood, unless previously approved by garden leaders.
The usual standard is to charge garden members an annual fee to cover the cost of maintenance, etc. Instead, garden members be asked to cover the cost of your planter bed. The garden will continue to operate this way until all the planter beds on the design are built, then we'll begin an annual fee.
Planter boxes need be filled with a mixture of 1/3 blended compost, 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 coarse vermiculite. It's the perfect combination for a program called Square Foot Gardening (SFG). Garden members will not be required to SFG, though it is recommended based on garden space. Garden leaders can help members to find sources for these materials.
The Design
Plots will be assigned in consideration of 1. the needs of the gardener and 2. the overall design of the garden. Plots near the western edge will be assigned first. The perimeter of the garden is going to be used for a rose garden and a butterfly garden, assuring good pollination of garden plots. The garden will be developed as indicated by the garden proposal.
Wednesday, January 18, 2012
The Design (as text!)
Garden Design
LaSalle Park Community Garden 1314 10th Street
Using the dimensions as recorded by St. Louis City, 39’ x 95’.
The most northern planter boxes in the lot all maintain a 3’ aisle to the home north of the lot.
All aisles between planter boxes are 3’.
There is a 9’x22’ parking area for loading and unloading only. In Phase I of plan, the area will remain grass, mowed and maintained by the garden. As budget allows, the area will be graveled.
There is a 7’x10’ area designated for compost and water. There will be two compost bins side by side, with one empty at all times and the compost within the working bin will be no higher than 4’ from the ground. Water storage will be done through rain water collection barrels. If the garden does not build all the planned boxes in the first growing season, the water barrels will move closer to existing boxes and be stationed along the south side of the lot.
The plan allows for 924 square feet of planting space, broken down into
a. 16 boxes measuring 4’x4’x1’
b. 2 boxes measuring 2’x7’x1’
c. 6 boxes measuring 2’x10’x1’
d. 10 boxes measuring 2’x11’x1’
This box division allows for different gardening needs: creeper plants, climbing plants (within vertical limits as dictated by the garden guidelines), small plots and large plots. A 2’ reach is comfortable for most gardeners, so the design uses that dimension to maximize limited space while minimizing crowding.
Planter box construction/assignment will begin on the west edge of the lot along the fence line, with boxes being constructed in order (as reasonable) to the eastern edge of the lot. The exception will be the most northern boxes. These boxes will be built as needed once the remaining boxes have been completed, or built for specific needs for disabled gardeners. This may include elevated boxes, taller boxes, or narrower boxes.
Planter boxes will be a minimum of 1’ tall (recommended) and a maximum of 3’. Boxes taller than 1’ will have adjusted vertical growing limits such that they do not shadow nearby boxes. Boxes taller than 1’ must be approved by garden leaders.
Before any boxes are constructed, a fence along the western edge of the property will be installed. Fencing will eventually enclose the lot completely, leaving the loading/unloading area outside the fence. When the eastern edge is installed, an easement between the alley top and the fence will be left in place to avoid damage to the fence by the present dumpster. An easement will also be in place on the northern edge of the property as decided between the garden leaders and the neighboring home owners to provide property security and ease of parking for the homeowners.
LaSalle Park Community Garden 1314 10th Street
Using the dimensions as recorded by St. Louis City, 39’ x 95’.
The most northern planter boxes in the lot all maintain a 3’ aisle to the home north of the lot.
All aisles between planter boxes are 3’.
There is a 9’x22’ parking area for loading and unloading only. In Phase I of plan, the area will remain grass, mowed and maintained by the garden. As budget allows, the area will be graveled.
There is a 7’x10’ area designated for compost and water. There will be two compost bins side by side, with one empty at all times and the compost within the working bin will be no higher than 4’ from the ground. Water storage will be done through rain water collection barrels. If the garden does not build all the planned boxes in the first growing season, the water barrels will move closer to existing boxes and be stationed along the south side of the lot.
The plan allows for 924 square feet of planting space, broken down into
a. 16 boxes measuring 4’x4’x1’
b. 2 boxes measuring 2’x7’x1’
c. 6 boxes measuring 2’x10’x1’
d. 10 boxes measuring 2’x11’x1’
This box division allows for different gardening needs: creeper plants, climbing plants (within vertical limits as dictated by the garden guidelines), small plots and large plots. A 2’ reach is comfortable for most gardeners, so the design uses that dimension to maximize limited space while minimizing crowding.
Planter box construction/assignment will begin on the west edge of the lot along the fence line, with boxes being constructed in order (as reasonable) to the eastern edge of the lot. The exception will be the most northern boxes. These boxes will be built as needed once the remaining boxes have been completed, or built for specific needs for disabled gardeners. This may include elevated boxes, taller boxes, or narrower boxes.
Planter boxes will be a minimum of 1’ tall (recommended) and a maximum of 3’. Boxes taller than 1’ will have adjusted vertical growing limits such that they do not shadow nearby boxes. Boxes taller than 1’ must be approved by garden leaders.
Before any boxes are constructed, a fence along the western edge of the property will be installed. Fencing will eventually enclose the lot completely, leaving the loading/unloading area outside the fence. When the eastern edge is installed, an easement between the alley top and the fence will be left in place to avoid damage to the fence by the present dumpster. An easement will also be in place on the northern edge of the property as decided between the garden leaders and the neighboring home owners to provide property security and ease of parking for the homeowners.
Proposed Garden Plan
Proposed Garden Plan for 1314 10th street
The plan allows for 924 square feet of planting space, broken down into
a. 16 boxes measuring 4’x4’
b. 2 boxes measuring 2’x7’
c. 6 boxes measuring 2’x10’
d. 10 boxes measuring 2’x11’
The design includes 1 parking area measuring 9’x22’ for unloading materials along the east edge of the property (alley). As budget allows, this area will be filled in with gravel materials.
The design includes 1 area for compost and water storage measuring 7’x10’. Compost will be held in 2 bins set in series; one bin will be used for holding composting materials while one bin will remain empty for turning materials into. Compost will be available for use in 1314 10th street as it is available; composting materials will be accepted into the active bin if the materials measure less than 4’ from the ground.
The design incorporates fencing along the west (10th street walkway) edge of the property in one continuous piece. Fencing is also called for along the northern edge as appropriate to the residence in place currently, the compost area, and the parking area; due to budget constrictions initial fence build may be limited by priority. The priority, from highest concern to lowest concern is the west edge of the property, the compost boundaries, the parking lot boundaries, and finally the north edge of the property.
The plan for the garden will need to occur in phases:
Phase I: Necessary lot improvement.
Phase II: Assignment and plot indicators.
Phase III: Remaining lot improvement.
These three phases will result in an ongoing maintenance status of the garden as outlined by the garden membership guidelines and garden leaders.
Phase I: Necessary Lot Improvement
1314 10th will require three basic lot improvements, in order of priority: installation of a fence at the western end of the property; leveling of high and low ground to eliminate water pooling; weed/plant removal as decided by garden leaders.
Phase I: Plan for Accomplishment
Fence: Donors have been secured for the purchase of fencing materials. Garden leaders will secure any necessary permitting for the fence installation and oversee installation. A current section of fencing exists on the western edge of the property; this fencing section will guide the selection of new fencing (featuring wood slats, 8 ft sections, and open back facing the interior of the lot).
Ground Leveling: Garden leaders will oversee the leveling of the lot. Any funds remaining from fence installation will be used to cover the cost of mechanical levelers. Additional funds may be sought from neighborhood donors to allow for the use of mechanical levelers. If funds are not available to fund mechanical levelers, leveling will be done by hand before any construction of planter boxes.
Weed/plant removal: Plants in the lot only need removal from surface level, no roots need to be removed. Before the construction of planting boxes, plants will be trimmed to ground level and debris removed from the property to proper disposal. Trimming will be done by physical means only, no herbicides will be used to “kill off” plant life prior to removal. Ongoing trimming/removal of plants outside of the garden plan will also be done by physical means only.
Phase II: Assignment and Plot Indicators.
The plan allows for 924 square feet of planting space, broken down into
a. 16 boxes measuring 4’x4’
b. 2 boxes measuring 2’x7’
c. 6 boxes measuring 2’x10’
d. 10 boxes measuring 2’x11’
Garden leaders will work with neighborhood residents to assign boxes based on the growing needs of residents. Boxes on the western edge of the lot will be assigned first, eastern edge lots assigned last. Boxes will be constructed according to the Garden Membership guidelines, using materials provided by garden leaders and members. During the initial year of garden development, boxes will only be constructed if assigned to a resident.
Water will be a necessary addition to the lot. Due to the lack of a water tap present in the lot and the distance from any working tap to the lot, rain collection barrels will be placed within the lot for garden use.
Phase III: Remaining lot improvement.
Remaining lot improvement includes all remaining fencing, in priority order as stated above, gravel loading/unloading area at eastern edge of lot, additional planting box construction, the addition of ‘walkway’ materials (such as mulch, grasses, creeper ground coverings, or recycled plastics covering) between planter boxes, and installation of water spigot.
Once all three phases of the garden development have been completed, the garden will move from development to maintenance. Garden maintenance will include:
a. Annual Membership drive, unless plots are all assigned
b. Annual review of member guidelines, effectiveness of guidelines, and recommended changes to guidelines
c. Establishment and management of a Garden fund to cover the cost of repairs, as needed, to the garden
d. Plot reassignment, as needed
e. Consideration of additional garden aspects, such as benches, compost bins, planting stations, etc.
The plan allows for 924 square feet of planting space, broken down into
a. 16 boxes measuring 4’x4’
b. 2 boxes measuring 2’x7’
c. 6 boxes measuring 2’x10’
d. 10 boxes measuring 2’x11’
The design includes 1 parking area measuring 9’x22’ for unloading materials along the east edge of the property (alley). As budget allows, this area will be filled in with gravel materials.
The design includes 1 area for compost and water storage measuring 7’x10’. Compost will be held in 2 bins set in series; one bin will be used for holding composting materials while one bin will remain empty for turning materials into. Compost will be available for use in 1314 10th street as it is available; composting materials will be accepted into the active bin if the materials measure less than 4’ from the ground.
The design incorporates fencing along the west (10th street walkway) edge of the property in one continuous piece. Fencing is also called for along the northern edge as appropriate to the residence in place currently, the compost area, and the parking area; due to budget constrictions initial fence build may be limited by priority. The priority, from highest concern to lowest concern is the west edge of the property, the compost boundaries, the parking lot boundaries, and finally the north edge of the property.
The plan for the garden will need to occur in phases:
Phase I: Necessary lot improvement.
Phase II: Assignment and plot indicators.
Phase III: Remaining lot improvement.
These three phases will result in an ongoing maintenance status of the garden as outlined by the garden membership guidelines and garden leaders.
Phase I: Necessary Lot Improvement
1314 10th will require three basic lot improvements, in order of priority: installation of a fence at the western end of the property; leveling of high and low ground to eliminate water pooling; weed/plant removal as decided by garden leaders.
Phase I: Plan for Accomplishment
Fence: Donors have been secured for the purchase of fencing materials. Garden leaders will secure any necessary permitting for the fence installation and oversee installation. A current section of fencing exists on the western edge of the property; this fencing section will guide the selection of new fencing (featuring wood slats, 8 ft sections, and open back facing the interior of the lot).
Ground Leveling: Garden leaders will oversee the leveling of the lot. Any funds remaining from fence installation will be used to cover the cost of mechanical levelers. Additional funds may be sought from neighborhood donors to allow for the use of mechanical levelers. If funds are not available to fund mechanical levelers, leveling will be done by hand before any construction of planter boxes.
Weed/plant removal: Plants in the lot only need removal from surface level, no roots need to be removed. Before the construction of planting boxes, plants will be trimmed to ground level and debris removed from the property to proper disposal. Trimming will be done by physical means only, no herbicides will be used to “kill off” plant life prior to removal. Ongoing trimming/removal of plants outside of the garden plan will also be done by physical means only.
Phase II: Assignment and Plot Indicators.
The plan allows for 924 square feet of planting space, broken down into
a. 16 boxes measuring 4’x4’
b. 2 boxes measuring 2’x7’
c. 6 boxes measuring 2’x10’
d. 10 boxes measuring 2’x11’
Garden leaders will work with neighborhood residents to assign boxes based on the growing needs of residents. Boxes on the western edge of the lot will be assigned first, eastern edge lots assigned last. Boxes will be constructed according to the Garden Membership guidelines, using materials provided by garden leaders and members. During the initial year of garden development, boxes will only be constructed if assigned to a resident.
Water will be a necessary addition to the lot. Due to the lack of a water tap present in the lot and the distance from any working tap to the lot, rain collection barrels will be placed within the lot for garden use.
Phase III: Remaining lot improvement.
Remaining lot improvement includes all remaining fencing, in priority order as stated above, gravel loading/unloading area at eastern edge of lot, additional planting box construction, the addition of ‘walkway’ materials (such as mulch, grasses, creeper ground coverings, or recycled plastics covering) between planter boxes, and installation of water spigot.
Once all three phases of the garden development have been completed, the garden will move from development to maintenance. Garden maintenance will include:
a. Annual Membership drive, unless plots are all assigned
b. Annual review of member guidelines, effectiveness of guidelines, and recommended changes to guidelines
c. Establishment and management of a Garden fund to cover the cost of repairs, as needed, to the garden
d. Plot reassignment, as needed
e. Consideration of additional garden aspects, such as benches, compost bins, planting stations, etc.
Welcome!
This blog is another way we can stay in touch and focused on our community garden at 1314 10th. It's a great central location for garden resources, conversation, and coordiation. This does not replace facebook, email, or twitter but will make it easier for garden members to have conversations and share info. For now, as garden leader I (Beth Mennemeyer) will be running all of this... but I welcome comments!
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